Off the beaten path

Today I drank from the Jordan River, saw Syria, Lebanon, taught in a synagogue, and much more. It was a different day than our previous two. We didn't spend time in places where key biblical events happened, but we got some additional foundational material for understanding the mindsets of this area, and framing both the past and the present.

I have been told that the Jordan River, in the area where John baptized Jesus is not much more than a ditch now, filled with a small stream of polluted water. I think we will see it later on the trip, once we are staying in Jerusalem, but today we are at the head waters. We were as far east as possible in Israel, and as far north. Thus being able to see Syria (to the east) and then Lebanon (to the North). All of this is visible from the Golan Heights – lost by Syria to Israel in 1967. Up in this corner is Mt. Hebron – from where the waters of the Jordan flow.

As we walked to see Tel Dan (archeological dig of the city founded by the tribe of Dan – one of the 12) we walked by the waters of the Jordan. At one garden spot I couldn't help myself – I bent down on one knee, scooped up the water in one hand, and had a drink of the fresh clean water. (unless it ends up being otherwise, and then I'll regret it...). Each day we have experienced water – standing in the Mediterranean, stepping into the Sea of Galilee, and today the waters of the Jordan – water is vital here. It determines where to live, and what to fight for...

Each day starts at 6am with breakfast at 6:30 – the days are full! Today, as we pulled out just after 7:15 we headed to Gamla. Never heard of it, me neither... but it was a significant city up in the mountains, a city which became a center for the Zealots who opposed the Romans, and it was here that the Jews made a stand. As the Romans attacked with 18,000 experienced and equipped soldiers, the 9,000 people of Gamla used their defenses, their knowledge of their city, and their fervor to repel the Roman army – a humiliation. But then again, the Romans weren't big on humiliation. They regrouped, re-planned, and re-attacked – decimating the city and all who were there. This city is significant as a symbol for many, for various reasons.

In it there were 3 synagogues, and we spent time in them reading together and reflecting on Luke 4 – where Jesus reads in the synagogue in Nazareth. I was able to read this passage as we imagined Jesus in his home town (Gamla is not Nazareth, we go there tomorrow, but it is much more developed and we won't have the place to ourselves). As it is getting late, I will take the liberty of writing what comes to mind. One reason we had the place to our selves is that it is in a valley in the middle of no where, the second is that it is in a valley, so you have to hike down a steep trail of loose rock (with a strong sun shining down)., Another site worth the visit, but one off the typical beaten path.

Then we drove across the Golan Heights. Seeing the remains of the battle of 1967 (dead tanks and the remains of stone houses), and the current military use of the area (by the Israeli forces). We drove to an overlook from which we could see Syria (and how Israel is developing the captured land). Then lunch – felafel in a pita. The restaurant is next to the site of Ceaserea Phillipi (sp), It is this region (two or three days walk from their normal stomping grounds where Jesus asked his disciples - “who do you say that I am?” Matthew 16:13-ff A quick trip through this area, seeing the worship spaces for many pagan gods (primarily Pan) and then we were off to Tel Dan.

In this massive city, made with very large river rocks, we considered the history, and how it connects to our situation. As it is late, and my battery is about done... I'll have to leave these thoughts of how they seemingly had everything, but how that lead them into trouble – post this, and get some rest for another day of learning.

Good Night