Spoiled at the ends of the earth

When you arrive in the evening, the morning is a surprise.  It was dusk as we entered Steward and Nyapu's home, just enough light to give impressions, but not to really know the world we were stepping into.  As we had no real concrete information of what our living conditions would be, we were pleasantly surprised.  Would we be sleeping on the floor, all sharing a room, or surrounded by things which would make Jen's skin crawl? We did not know.

The main house

our guest house

A small guest house is our home, with a room for the boys with two beds, and a private room for Jen and me.  It is a warm climate, so the windows are glass free, but they do have curtains for privacy (where necessary).  Each bed is equipped with a solid (no foam or springs) mattress, small pillow, mosquito net and a wonderfully soft, thick and fuzzy blanket which takes care of the cool mountain air in the evening. (it is winter after all)













The biggest difference requiring a definite adjustment in the day to day is related to the bathroom realities.  For the home and the guest house there is one closet sized room with a squatting toilet.  This is the place for everything bathroom related - or at least it was - until lunch time on day one.

A room where there was no room.  

As the sun rose early in the morning, we were awakened by ducks, trucks, horns, songbirds, and anything else which could make some noise to announce the new day.  [note: there is only one time zone in the entire country of India - here in the northeast the sun always rises early and sets early]  With anticipation we opened the door and entered our new world.  We could look over the entire town of Likabali.  We could examine the poinsettia trees, bamboo stands, and the structures which make up the Himalayan Bible Training Centre.

During the tour of the small plot of rugged land where so much ministry happens, Steward says he is thinking of building us a bathroom for our visit.  I didn't know exactly what he had in mind, but he gathered some of the students, pointed at some bamboo lying around, and set them to work.  Within hours, wedged behind one building, and next to another; a floor of wooden planks, surrounded by a wall of black plastic, became a washroom with a ceramic pedestal sink and a 30 gallon bucket of water.

This created space has been one of many little blessings as we have been spoiled here.  A place to wash our teeth, comb our hair, and even pour buckets of heated water over us to clean off the dust of the day.

It has been wonderful to see the boys focus on the hospitality we have been receiving more than the conveniences we are going without.

• A maid providing tea and cookies before breakfast and in the afternoon.  
• Special food prepared for a seven year old boy who's taste buds had been overwhelmed with spices.  
• Stains washed from clothes which an inexperienced handwasher could not get out.
• Countless bags of chips and snacks provided as American boys explore Indian junk food.  
• Private rooms to sleep in when the students sleep in common rooms.
• Battery powered lights for the many times when the electricity turns off.
• and the list could go on....

Yes, this is a very different world, but we could not be treated any better.

Prince Corbi

The best beginning in Likabali

We have been staying at the edge of Assam, in the border town of Likabali, (technically within Aranachal Pradesh) for almost a week now.  There has been so much to assimilate in this very unfamiliar place that writing has not come to me.  Additionally, I have been responsible to hours of teaching to prepare for and deliver, and we have been seeking to encourage and learn.  Now, after a week, with the teaching I came to do now past, I am ready to face the challenge of sharing this experience with you.  I want you to know how amazing the people are, the place is, the experience is.  How amazing and humbling it is to be here with my family, and connect with my larger spiritual family.

There is no clear beginning, but walking out of the doors of the airport in Dibrugarh is as good as any (although the adventures of getting on the flight out of Delhi are a story as well).  In faith, we tell the eager taxi drivers we have a ride coming - as we scan over their heads for the one familiar face we know in 2000 mile radius.  In a time like this, you find yourself pushing back the thought, "What do we do if he isn't here?"  A few minutes later relief comes as you see the familiar walk of a foriegn friend coming across the parking lot.  We are not alone...

And we were less alone than we knew.  Pastor Steward informed us that his army officer friend was coming to meet us at the airport as well.  You roll with what comes.  Minutes later a small 4x4 arrives with a plackard on the front indicating a commander is in the vehicle.  A well built man in aviator sunglasses and business casual attire steps out of the passanger side.  We are introduced to Ashish, told he just arrived from Delhi as well and will help give us a ride back to Steward's home.  Before we knew which way the breeze was blowing; Jashton and Tobiah were in the 4x4 with Ashish and his driver, and the rest of us were loaded in Steward's mini-mini van.  On our way....

We saw little of Dibrugarh as we headed out of town down reasonable quality two lane roads like you would find in any rural area of America.  But it was clear we were not in America.  We were in Assam - famous for its tea.  And that is exactly what we saw in the flat land we drove past - tea fields.  That's what tea bushes look like - who knew?

Then, after an hour or two of driving we were no longer on a paved road.  The developing world ritual of rolling up and rolling down the windows of your vehicle began.  Paving does a wonderful job of controlling dust.  Without it, every passing vehicle is another cloud of dust seeking to get anywhere that dust hasn't yet arrived.  The dirt roads were result of road work, actually bridge work, actually bridge construction - that is far from complete even though it began 20 years ago.  When complete, the bridge will be the longest in all of India - but it isn't done yet, so we bomb along rutted, silted roads through the flood planes of the river we must cross.

Then we come to the "village" temporary shelters on the current banks of the river.  This time of the year the water is low, and it is only a 30 minute ferry ride.  Other times it can be three times as long.   It was here we learned benefit number two of Ashish.  As a commander in the Indian army, a ferry was waiting for him, left as soon as both vehicles were on board, and we were served water, tea and cookies, and coke before we made it to the other side.  (I'll let the photos describe these hand built wooden ferries)

Guess which one is Ashish...

After a total journey of close to four hours, through farm land, trading centers and small towns, the flat plains of the river valley turned upwards, turned green, and minutes later we turned into the property of Steward and Nyapu.  Our home for this week is perched on the foot hills of the Himalayan mountains.  No, you cannot see any mountains, but we are on the edge of new terrain - looking out over the flat and barren, surrounded by the rugged and green - plams, bamboo, trees and plants of every variety burst from the ground here in the forest of Likabali.

the final stretch before the muntains begin

And this was just our first few hours in the new and wonderful place.

not your typical top 20 list

Today I asked these questions:
What are trials you face in life?  What are problems you face as a pastor?
Recorded in English, here is the list from 30 pastors and students in Assam, India.

Not your run of the mill, first world problem answers.  But they help explain why after studying the book of Philippians for two days together, the verses which God used to speak to them and encourage them where verses like these:

"I have learned to be content in all circumstances" 4:11

"And my God shall supply all your needs according to His glorious riches in Christ Jesus." 4:19

"For our citizenship is in heaven.  And we eagerly await a Savior from there, the Lord Jesus Christ."  3:20

This verse on citizenship was a verse which I did not even have in my notes originally.  It was added to the end of one of my sessions - primarily because I could draw a parallel between being a citizen of the USA and the privileges it brings, and what it means to be a citizen of heaven.   For people who face the trails and challenges listed above, they do not need any help seeing the benefit of being a citizen of heaven.  They know what it is to eagerly await salivation.

Humbled again.  No need for props, for creative speech, or in depth study - the message of God, the power of the Bible, speaks well on its own.  It has been a wonderful few days of teaching and learning!

and yes, I am a bit taller than the people of Assam...

Out of my depth

 I'm not exactly sure what the phrase "out of my depth" actually means or where it came from - but I'm pretty sure I'm there!  As I sit at a small desk, looking out at rugged greenery through a window with no glass, and work on my material for tomorrow - I can feel my reliance on God within my chest in a tangible way.

What will be helpful?  How do I connect?  What is the best way to teach in this context?  How fast or slow will the time go?  All I know for sure is that God better be in all this or it will be a total waste of time for everyone.  So where am I, and what am I doing?

I am in Likabali, Assam, India.  If it were not for google maps you would not have a chance of figuring out where in the world that is.  A small town on the border between Assam and the protected state of Aranachal - on the road which leads to China.  It is here that about 15 years ago Pastor Steward came to help churches and Christians.  Over the years, he has married a local Christian woman, they have started a family, and on land given by her father built not only a home, but the Likabali Leadership Training Centre.

Here, every year, Pastor Steward trains 10 to 20 young men and women to serve as pastors and evangelists in small towns and villages throughout the area.  These young Christians called by God come and live in Likabali for nine months, and pastor Steward pours into them good training, basic principles, and his heart of faith.

This is their final week here at the training centre.  On Saturday they graduate.  What God does with these 14 students I may never know in my life time, but I have a few days to encourage them as they embark into service.  I truly believe they are more important than I am in God's kingdom.  Some of them will be working within a tribe of 2 million people, of which only a few thousand have heard about Jesus.  Others will go back to villages to live and serve as a witness to Christ - places where no missionary may go.

But not only these 14 students, but another 30 or so pastors and evangelists are to arrive for a two day seminar I am leading.  Pastors, some with no formal training, but a definite call of God upon their lives.  What do I have to offer?  All my experience with Americans who have no theology of suffering.  All my experience using biblical tools and resources that these pastors may never have access to.  All my experience trying to break through a jaded and educated population which is pretty sure they don't need anything.  Most of my ministry experience is useless here - but I am not.

I am not useless because I have the Bible.  I am not useless because God has called me to this.  I am not useless because, while on the surface our worlds are as different as their longitude on the globe, in our hearts every human has the same needs.  God is the same yesterday, today and forever - not to mention every timezone.  The Bible is alive and breathes words of hope and life into every open heart regardless of language or culture.  God's Spirit is more powerful than we can imagine.  The name of Jesus Christ still stirs hearts today.

I am out of my depth, and plumbing the depths of God's greatness.  Please keep me in your prayers that I may stay sensitive to God's lead as I teach and encourage these pastors - and they teach and encourage me.

who do you trust?

One of our biggest challenges in Delhi was figuring out who to trust.  Tobiah astutely observed that 'Indians are very friendly,' however, they are not always helpful.  As we toured sites, found appointments, or tried new things we found people were indeed very helpful. others who were misguided, and many who were mis-guiding. 

When trying to figure out how to get in and see the mighty Red Fort in Delhi, before we realized it we had acquired a gray market tour guide... but he did get us to the right places and teach us a few things.  As that was the first stop on our day of touring many of the major sites of the city it was a helpful learning experience.  But were the prices good at the cottage industry fixed price bazaar we were taken to at the end of the day a good deal or not?  Were the claims of good prices because of government subsidies true - hopefully we will never know.
When trying to find the meeting place for the tour with the organization working with street kids we knew it was just down from the rail station - where we had our wake up experience upon arrival.  It was a few minute walk from the hotel - but a few friendly and seemingly helpful men just about derailed our journey as one tried to convince me the road we were about to head down was closed, and another sought to get us into a tuktuk on the way to a place better suited for tourists.... Ultimately we had to ignore these new friends and go with what we thought we knew - and low and behold the road was open and I did know the way!

I could go on, but the point isn't about the people who we discovered we could not trust - but rather the realization of how many people we do trust.  If we do not trust people, life gets very hard.  Do we trust the staff at the hotel with semi-valuables left in the room?  What about traveling overnight to Agra to see the Taj Mahal, and leaving just about all our belongings in the care of complete strangers back in Delhi?  (strangers once again being hotel staff)  Would the taxi driver wait for us and be there when we come out of the site?  Will the guide arranged for us actually be there?  Is the food being prepared in a sanitary way by the restaurant staff?

Everyday in our mundane lives we operate on trust.  In our shopping, driving, banking and work we operate on trust.  We don't think about it much because we know the people, the systems, the norms, the signs and the cues.  It is when we are in a foreign situation, when the familiar is stripped away, trust becomes a choice.  We make our best decision on who to trust, take a step of faith, and commit.  Or maybe we don't....  but if we choose not to trust, we have to lug all our baggage with us, we have to limit our opportunities, we have less risk and much less opportunity.

Traveling in India these days have reminded me about trust - and the importance of trusting wisely in the trustworthy.  And upon reflection, that is exactly what Jen and I have sought to do with our lives as we trust God with our lives.  With God, we can leave our baggage behind, travel light through life, and have a great adventure knowing God loves us and cares for us and is the trustworthiest!

I am writing from Assam with very limited internet - sorry, no pictures

Photos of Delhi - street-kids no more

Salaam Balaak city tour - a definite highlight!

http://www.salaambaalaktrust.com/

What would you do for 80 cents?

What a let down.  We had heard about the craziness of arriving in Delhi - hoards of people, everyone wanting you to go with them, use their taxi, or fall for their scam.  We arrived at noon, had a little trouble with the fingerprint scanner at immigration, and then peacefully walked to the very nice, clean, quiet and calm metro express.  We were quickly whisked from the lovely airport to the metro station at the main Delhi train station.

We braced ourselves for Delhi as we exited the station. The police were friendly even if somewhat unhelpful in pointing us in the direction of our hotel.  The tuktuk drivers (3 wheeled motorized taxi carts) we also helpful, and even they encouraged us to walk, and pointed us in the right direction.  Hello!  We wanted our kids to experience third world chaos - we were not impressed.

Then we crossed an invisible threshold.  Weaving through a sea of taxis, cars and tuktuks in waiting - no signs, no clarity, no clue!  Our confidence vanished, and a small island of white faces, uncertain in a sea of India daily life, emerged as a target of uncertainty.  "You must go around"  "It is too far, you must take a taxi" "You go right through the station" "You cannot go through unless you have a ticket"  "It will take a half an hour or more, let me help you"  Who to believe? How do we find our hotel?  What should we do?

We are learning - use the best information you have, set your course and go with the best confidence you can muster.

Yes, we did have to go through the rail station.
Yes, we did have to go through security.
No, you did not need a rail ticket.
No, it was not too far.
No, we still did not have a clue once we came out the other side.
Yes, we knew the hotel was only a 4 minute walk from our location, but in exactly which direction - That we did not know....

I started asking - I had no choice - I needed more information.  Asking draws attention, brings the helpful, the useless, and the opportunist..... and a determined bike-rickshaw driver.  But we were going to walk, but we was going to push his way through the crowded street to offer his help every 15 feet. "50 rupees - I take bags and 2 kids" (how was that going to work?"  "40 rupees, I take your wife" (she is worth so much more).

Half I block later I realized he wasn't going anywhere, this wasn't easy, and that he couldn't go any faster than I could.  Oh, and I realized he actually knew where we were going, and I certainly did not.... So load up the luggage, the wife and Corban - and make sure the rest of us never lose that rickshaw.  We were off, and a few minutes later up a road which is hard to describe to Americans, we arrived at the doors of Hotel Kriishna.

He was willing to do it for 40, he started at 50, he was exactly what we needed when we needed it, and didn't give up on getting our business - priceless.  100 rupees later he was happy, and we were in the oasis of a clean hotel in a gritty, crowded, hectic part of a huge foreign city.

Here is my reflection - What would you do for 80 cents?  How hard would you work to make it through life?  We were saved by a friendly capable man in his 50's who was doing whatever he could to get whatever was possible.  Coming from a land where people won't take a job at $9 an hour because...  It is humbling to see a grown man working so hard for so little.  Yes, America is still the land of opportunity.  This man, willing to doggedly pursue my pocket change, will probably never get ahead.  He will survive, get by, his kids may have a better life - but if you put the same work and effort into the system at home, most likely he would not end up a rags to riches story, but the possibilities are so much greater.   Yes, life can feel hard in the USA, but coming to places like this is such a good reminder of the great opportunities, the amazing social supports, and the many good things of America.  It is good to be in India - a wonderful place filled with wonderful hardworking people.

After two days of travel - roof of Hotel Krishna

So that was the first few hours in Delhi.  Since then we have seen, traveled and learned.  The Taj Mahal is truly amazing, the outreach of Salaam Baalak Trust is making a difference, and I've got a few theories brewing of cultural difference.  More to come...